In the heart of the Margaret River wine region, a new dining experience has quietly taken root — one that isn’t chasing stars or trends, but instead offering something far more enduring: relaxed excellence.
Masseria by Cherubino is the latest venture from Larry Cherubino, joining his existing City Cellar in Subiaco and the cellar door on the adjoining vineyard property. But where City Cellar brings refined wine culture to Perth’s urban core, Masseria leans into the rustic elegance of the region, embracing long lunches, glasses of fine wine, and an atmosphere that asks nothing of you but to slow down and enjoy yourself.
“It’s not about the chef, or even the winemaker,” says Larry. “It’s about the place, the food, the wine, and most importantly, the customer. People just want somewhere comfortable they can settle into and enjoy great food and wine for a few hours. That’s what Masseria is built for.”
A space that feels like home
The word masseria means farmhouse in Puglia, and that philosophy is woven through every inch of the venue. It’s not trying to impress you with theatrics — it’s trying to welcome you in. There are personal touches everywhere: knives sourced from a village near Florence, Champagne flutes discovered in London, and subtle design details that speak to the Cherubino family’s travels and tastes. Even the olive branches used in garnishes are clipped straight from the surrounding grove.
“People want to feel relaxed,” Larry says. “And if there are little personal bits around that make the place feel lived-in, that’s a good thing. We don’t want it to feel curated. We want it to feel real.”
It’s a philosophy that’s extended to the hospitality, too. The goal here isn’t to dazzle, it’s to make you feel like a regular, even if it’s your first visit. The team at Masseria greet you with warmth, not pretence. Names are remembered. Wines are poured with quiet confidence. There’s no rush to leave.
Mediterranean soul, South West roots
The menu, helmed by chef Ben Jacob, is Mediterranean at its core but grounded firmly in the South West. Expect Italian soul food done right — dishes that are rich in flavour but light in fuss. Think arancini with amatriciana-style filling and Sardinian ricotta. Handmade pastas like spaghetti cacio e pepe or gnocchi with fennel, leek, and oregano are centrepieces, while larger mains include Shark Bay snapper with mussels or a bistecca with Brussels sprouts and pancetta.
“We wanted to create something that was accessible and generous,” Ben says. “There’s so much pressure these days to finesse everything until it’s unrecognisable. But the best food is often the simplest. Our job is to get out of the way and let the produce speak.”
There’s a steady commitment to sourcing local proteins and vegetables, which allows the menu to shift with the seasons without losing its identity.
A wine list worth travelling for
Of course, no Cherubino venue is complete without a serious wine list, and Masseria might just be the jewel in the crown, with an extensive wine list that reads like a love letter to European varietals and WA brilliance in equal measure.
Unlike many winery restaurants, Masseria doesn’t restrict its offering to house-made wines. The list is layered, global, and curated with curiosity.
“We’re not afraid to pour other people’s wine,” Larry explains. “In fact, we embrace it. You’ll find Barolo, Burgundy, Chablis, Champagne — all sitting next to our own museum wines and small-batch bottles made exclusively for our venues.”
Larry’s personal passion for Italian varietals shines through, particularly the Nebbiolo-based Barolos from Piedmont, which, if he had to pick one wine to drink for the rest of his life, would be his choice.
The pricing model follows the same no-fuss approach seen at City Cellar: fair, considered, and built to reward regular exploration rather than punish indulgence. And soon, the drinks list will grow to include a small range of Cherubino spirits — vodka and gin made from local grapes, designed for sipping or mixing into pared-back, elegant cocktails.
More than a restaurant
While Masseria is open for lunch from Wednesday through Sunday, it’s not just a place to dine, it’s a place to gather. With a special facilities licence, the venue is perfectly set up to host weddings, private launches, and intimate events without ever tipping into “function centre” territory.
“We don’t want it to become a wedding venue,” Larry says. “But it’s important to have a space that allows us to do more. We’ll host our own wine launches here, but we’ll also support our friends in the region who don’t have a cellar door. It’s about building community, not exclusivity.”
With an Italian sommelier on staff and a vision for wine-tasting, music nights, and collaborative events, Masseria is shaping up to be as much a cultural destination as it is a restaurant.
A reflection of the Cherubino philosophy
It’s no coincidence that Masseria feels like a natural extension of the Cherubino wine philosophy. After more than 20 years in the business, Larry’s approach has remained unchanged: no compromise on quality, no shortcuts, and a belief that if you focus on doing a few things well, people will notice.
“We started this business at a time when the wine industry was struggling,” he reflects. “And we built it on the idea that you don’t compromise. That philosophy has carried us through, and it’s the same with hospitality. There’s no ego here, just an ambition to give people something really good, and to keep improving every time they come back.”
For a restaurant that favours restraint over razzle-dazzle, Masseria makes a quietly unforgettable impression. It’s the kind of place that doesn’t need to shout — it just pours you a glass, plates something delicious, and lets the rest take care of itself.
